不到长成，非好汉! (If you ain't been to the Great Wall, you ain't nothin'!)

That's the saying that all of us China-dwellers have no doubt heard a hundred thousand times, which really more accurately translates into something like, "If you haven't been to the Great Wall, you aren't a true man." With that pressure from within China, and the knowledge that when we returned to the States, Americans, too, will wonder if Phoebe ever made it to the Great Wall, we decided to make one more trek to Beijing so that she could see what we have seen and loved so well in the great capital city of China. We didn't mind one bit, because Beijing is one of our favorite places we have ever been!

Beijing is big, and grand. Large splashy opera houses and acrobat theatres vie with massive government buildings and ancient Ming architecture for grandeur. Tiananmen Square is massive, and the monuments, the flags, the soldiers, are all quite impressive. This is the city where China was finally declared to be unified, under communism, in 1949, by Chairman Mao ZeDong. This is the city, the very square, where he still lies in state, revered and paid respect to by thousands daily. This is the square, too, that saw the massive democracy rallies in 1989 and the unbelievable aftermath. It's a place of power, and of culmination, and as we took it all in for the last time in what will likely be a very long time, we experienced powerful emotions, and the eventual culmination of our lives in China, our first career, which we have dearly cherished. It's hard to let go, but our time in Beijing contributed to our sense of closure and helped us to say goodbye. 

On the way to the Great Wall the morning we went, we waited for half an hour at a seemingly random place where we would board our bus. While there, I noticed and went inside a nearby church building. It turns out it was established by Matteo Ricci in the 1600's. I was very moved to think of what he must have gone through to teach the gospel in that place at that time, and I was once again encouraged by evidence of God's long pursuit of the hearts of the Chinese people. 

Of all the times we have visited the Great Wall, this was my favorite. The location was amazing, and one we had never visited before. And it was so meaningful to get to take my child there and let her experience it firsthand. She embraced it wholeheartedly! She was convinced she might really catch a glimpse of Mulan fighting off some"bad guys" atop the wall that day! She wanted a sword of her own so she could help defend China if need be. 

Instead of actually climbing the mountain and tackling the sizeable stairways to top the wall, we opted to get to the top by cable car this time! The view was amazing! (Phoebe loved it; Jason was terrified. She consoled him: "Don't worry; God is with you!")

We were able to spend more than an hour on the wall, getting the best views and discovering the watchtowers that were up there. 

Then, when it was time to go down to the bus again, we rode down a toboggan slide back to the settlement below! This part was super fun and exciting for all of us, especially Phoebe!

Back in the city, we were able to eat some amazing meals. Beijing makes great jiaozi (Chinese dumplings), and roasts awesome Peiking Duck.

Also we took in some amazing shows. The shows are part of what make Beijing, Beijing. It's just awesome, and something that has got to be experienced to be understood. It just gets into your blood. Phoebe got right into it and enjoyed Beijing Opera like a Beijing native: cheering, clapping, talking loudly, and chomping away happily on a candied may haw on a stick. 

Our last night there, we attended the nightly lowering of the national flag in Tiananmen Square.There is always a crowd. The mood that night was silent, solemn. The soldiers marched out. Dusk crept in. The flag lowered, quickly, quietly, on the Square that night, and on our time in China. I felt that as the soldiers marched back into the Forbidden City that night carrying the flag, they were carrying much more with them than just that flag. They were carrying our time in China, with its struggles and victories, amazing highs and lows, breath-taking experiences, and what have become our fondest memories...It felt clear once again to me that China is theirs, not ours, and our time here has been God's grace and God's gift to us. I have been an alien, a stranger, a guest, a friend...I will go back where I came from, and they will go on, playing out their utterly amazing story, with their history and culture that could never fail to capture one's attention, one's heart, one's passion.

The flag was ushered into the Forbidden City that night, the great gates closed, and our time in China has now long since come to a close as well. We cannot fully express the thankfulness that overflows our hearts for the chance we had; to be sent was one of the greatest privileges I can imagine. To bear witness to and contribute to God's continuing work in China has built our faith in a thousand ways, big and small. To Him be the glory for His love, His justice, and His grace for the Chinese people. 

BONUS FOOTAGE:

Jason's impromptu underground concert beneath Tiananmen Square during a sudden Beijing summer thunderstorm.